Gays That Travel

A quick guide to driving across the Nullabor

15 May 2022

Driving across the Nullabor

The Nullabor is a long 1256km stretch of road between Western Australia and South Australia. The majority of it is as straight as Chris Hemsworth, and has very little bends. We legit played a game of ‘shout when there is a bend in the road’ as we crossed the Nullabor! 

Some people find it super relaxing, while others find it super boring. We are definitely the latter. 

Either way, here is your quick guide to traveling the Nullabor.

Can you drive across the Nullabor?

Yes, driving is the main way you cross the Nullabor!

Before the 1970’s though, the Nullabor used to be an unpaved road the whole way through, which made it super difficult to drive. Then in 1976 it was sealed, making it much more accessible. Thank god, because our van would definitely not have made the trip otherwise! In fact, it barely survived the journey despite being a sealed road. Find out how in the video below.

Where does the Nullabor start?

The Nullabor drive starts in Western Australia in a town called Norseman. It’s 2 hours south of Kalgoorie and 2 hours north of Esperance, the final spot on the South West Edge – our favourite road trip in the country.

If you’re crossing the Nullabor from South Australia, the drive starts in a town called Ceduna.

Cyril Avery is not a real Avery — or at least, that’s what his adoptive parents tell him. And he never will be. But if he isn’t a real Avery, then who is he?

Born out of wedlock to a teenage girl cast out from her rural Irish community and adopted by a well-to-do if eccentric Dublin couple via the intervention of a hunchbacked Redemptorist nun, Cyril is adrift in the world, anchored only tenuously by his heartfelt friendship with the infinitely more glamourous and dangerous Julian Woodbead. At the mercy of fortune and coincidence, he will spend a lifetime coming to know himself and where he came from – and over his many years, will struggle to discover an identity, a home, a country, and much more.

In this, Boyne’s most transcendent work to date, we are shown the story of Ireland from the 1940s to today through the eyes of one ordinary man. The Heart’s Invisible Furies is a novel to make you laugh and cry while reminding us all of the redemptive power of the human spirit.

Is there phone reception on the Nullabor?

The Nullabor has Telstra and other service provider reception on certain sections of the drive. In Western Australia you’ll have Telstra phone reception on most spots from Norseman to Eucla, which is the last little border village in WA. We even camped overnight in Madura pass lookout and had Telstra phone reception.

Here’s a map that shows where you’ll get Telstra reception in Australia.

Where do you stop when driving across the Nullabor?

There are 19 roadhouses and even more free camp spots to stay overnight when driving across the Nullabor. We did not stay at the roadhouses, but rather camped for free. We camped at Madura pass lookout on night 1 which is 5 and a half hours from Norseman. The sunrise here was really spectacular. We stayed just outside Penong, about 6 hours from Madura, on night 2. You can use Wikicamps to find all the free and paid campsites for your drive across the Nullabor.

Can you travel the Nullabor at night?

It’s not worth driving across the Nullabor at night. The road is pretty much completely straight and can be fatigue-inducing. Loads of animals cross the Nullabor in the dark, making it a bit dangerous too. So you will likely kill a few animals and potentially risk your own life.

How long does it take to drive across the Nullabor?

It takes almost 13 hours to cross the Nullabor plain, from Norseman to Ceduna. Add a few hours if you’re coming from Esperance like we did. It’ll take longer if you’re like us and need to nap every few hours along the drive! 

How does the Nullabor get its name?

The Nullabor comes from the Latin term ‘nullus arbor’ which means ‘no trees’. As the name suggests, there are very little trees on the actual drive across the Nullabor Plains (on the South Australian side). Throughout the drive in Western Australia, you will definitely see some trees though!

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What can you do once you've finished driving across the Nullabor?

Driving across the Nullabor

When you finish the Nullabor drive, celebrate (like Charlie is in the image above)! You just completed one long slog!

If you’ve just reached Western Australia, start the South West Edge all the way from Esperance to Perth. It is our absolute favourite road trip in Australia and we spent 3 months seeing it all!

Read more about the South West Edge road trip, or watch our video below to see why Esperance is home to Australia’s best beaches!

For now, we hope you have a nice and safe drive across the Nullabor. Download some podcasts, music, and audiobooks and enjoy the ride. 

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